Post by MADMIKE on Nov 20, 2006 16:50:31 GMT -5
Each tank had it own net and tools:
Nothing was ever taken from one to the other. Dipping of fingers or hands from one tank to the other was an absolute sin, and never done. Hands were washed before working on the next tank, and any drips or condensation were wiped away in case it/they dropped from one tank to the next lower one. A single drop of water can transmit a disease from one tank to another so quickly you wouldn't believe.
Water changes:
Water changes, (in my case) were done on a visual basis. If the water has evaporated ?" from its original marked level I would do a 30% water change, never every few days, and never more than perhaps once a month, and always using my aged water in the outside tub/s. Invariably the tanks might have needed a clean up, so in this situation we would siphon the rubbish off the bottom and into a bucket. The water that we siphoned out was dumped and replaced by our aged water. This was then our "water change" and few troubles were encountered. A balanced tank will keep itself free from excess toxins, e.g., the right water conditions, substrate-plants-filtration-and fish, any of which can cause an unbalance.
Water:
Too hard, too soft, too alkaline, too acid - all can be balanced without chemicals.
Substrate/gravel:
Too fine, packs down tight, causing bad circulation, especially with u/g filters, whereas too large a gravel will allow food to reach inaccessible places with dire consequences - food remains uneaten and quickly fouls the tank. Remedy, go for what's right, not what looks pretty.
Slow deterioration of rocks and ornaments:
Badly selected rocks and substrates, (lime-based gravels, sandstones, corals, shells, ornaments), will all change your tank conditions as they slowly leach or dissolve over time. That ornament or substrate may look great, but is it killing your fish?
Hiding Places:
Many types of fish need places to hide, but many things other than plants are usually unsightly. The upturned flower pot of the terra-cotta type can soon become disguised by algae growth and such, but a simple idea for quick camouflage is to spread silicone glue on the item and roll it in some gravel. You can do this with all sorts of things including bits of pipe that might be homes for your nocturnal fish such as some catfish.
Plants:
Too few plants - no hiding places for fragile fish, causing fish to be bullied. Again, find out the likes and dislikes of your plants. For instance, most Crypts prefer dimly lit areas, etc. Shallow gravel will not produce good plants. Bank your gravel to the rear of the tank (at least 3") and plant accordingly, big deep rooted plants to the rear, small types to the front. As with your garden, they need feeding and something to get their roots into. The wastes from your fish may in most cases be enough food, but a good root structure and light are essentials for all plants. A 'Plantab' for aquarium plants slipped under the roots will assist flagging plants. Or try this:
Plant Fertiliser:
Putting fertiliser under plants is a good idea, but unless it is in a tablet form it can be really messy. Try this. Mix a small quantity of organic peat and potting mix (again organic) in a bowl with water until the peat/potting mix becomes fully saturated. Use an ice cube tray and fill with the mixture. Pop it in the freezer till solid. You now have cubes of fertiliser that you can pop under your plants without mess. The ice will melt quickly leaving a nice deposit of fertiliser in the right place.
Weighted Plants:
Instead of attaching lead weights to plants, use a rubber band and a pebble. Place the pebble at the base of the plant and wrap the rubber band around both the pebble and the plant stem. Once buried it will remain unseen, and you have no bits of lead in your tank if the plant breaks free.
Filtration:
NEVER turn your filter or air off for any length of time, especially an undergravel filter. The bacteria buildup will skyrocket causing major probs instantly. Always have some form of air supply running if your tank is in the least bit crowded. Contrary to belief, the bubbles from an airstone don't put oxygen in the water. What the bubbles do is break up and disperse the CO2 that can build up in a tank. Watch for fish lurking near the surface with open mouths, a sure sign of lack of oxygen in the water. Not the Gouramis, Bettas etc, which are surface breathers anyway. For these fish, ensure the surface is scum free by dragging a sheet of paper over the surface of the water occasionally. This will completely remove the thin film that sometimes forms on the surface of the water. Check each day.
Heat Distribution:
Fit your heater as low as possible in your tank and clear of the gravel, and if it is a separate unit from the thermostat place it at the opposite end of the tank. This will prevent cold spots in your tank and provide a constant temperature at all levels. (Heat rises, so if possible fix your heater in a horizontal rather than a vertical position for better heat distribution).
Twin Heaters:
Fitting two heaters in a tank seems a waste, but if you set one to only come on at say 72degF then in the event of a heater failure you won't lose all your fish, and you will always have a spare heater on hand.
Feeding:
Feed half as much as you think your fish need, and if its not consumed in less than five minutes, you are feeding too much. An established tank will sustain your fish for a week or more without food, so don't think you need to feed them every time you pass the tank. "Ooh look, they're all excited at seeing me, they must be hungry…" In goes another feed, the third today. How often have you done or said this?
When to feed:
Never feed at night then turn the lights off and leave the fish in darkness, a major problem. The corys and kuhlis won't mind, but your tank will suffer if the night dwellers don't eat all the remains of the food. Small fish have small mouths, so vary your food type to suit them all. Give them a live food treat now and again, brine shrimp, microworms, grindal worms, white worms, or even a chopped up earthworm if you have big fish. In time you will know their likes and dislikes.
Probs with algae:
Throw the scraper away an get a couple of small plecos. They're fun, hardy, and adore algae.
Impulse buying of fish:
Fine if you know the fish, and of course is great for the LFS (Local Fish Shop), but can cause many upsets and even tears if you don't read first, so take an hour or so and read all you can before you jump in the deep end.
Lastly:
Read, read, read - the three rules of keeping fish. Learn every possible thing you can about where your fish comes from, its water conditions, its temperature limitations, the food it eats, the species it can live with, its breeding habits, is it a loner or does it school with others, and in general, its likes and dislikes. piranhas and neons have an adipose fin and are distant relatives, but they definitely don't live together, so read and learn all you can BEFORE you add that particular fish to your collection. (No comments on the piranhas please)
It seems a lot to take in all at once, but all this info. is on this site and many others just waiting to be read if you care to read and study it. My philosophy is that "If anyone can teach me something I will listen, should it be a child, or a ninety year old." So I am learning each time I read an article about tropical fish.
We all lose fish at some time or other, and the reasons can be mystifying, but personally I feel that many of the losses are caused by either sheer neglect and not making oneself familiar with the fish BEFORE purchase, along with the possibility that many of the fish were actually poisoned due to the intake of chemicals, incorrect or too many water changes and such.
We can take a pill for a headache or an ailment, but if we take too many of them it will undoubtedly kill us. This will possibly cause a lot of backfire from the clued-up aquarists, but I still feel that if you read up on your fish, get to know its habits and living and water conditions and the neighbours it lives with, then you are well on the way to having a less stressful and very enjoyable hobby. Many newcomers try it once and leave quickly after their first failures. We don't want this to happen to you, so read everything you can about the hobby, consider your situation and your set-up, then, and only then, think (very carefully) about your next purchase.
...Just a note for people who keep goldfish in a heated aquarium:
All fish have the right to a decent life, even goldfish. I myself have culled thousands of fish in my time I suppose, but these were either runts or a defective strain that I would not allow to continue living and breeding for fear they would fill our tanks with some of the oddities I see today. Selective breed by all means, but don't allow your runts and defective breeds to enter the world of the aquarist. (Are there any 'true' strains still out there?). Goldfish are cold water fish, and keeping them at 70F+ degrees will shorten their life span by many years. We had goldfish that lived happily for ten years, outside in a pool that would freeze over in winter with over an inch of ice, but come spring they were always there. The heated tank may also cause undue stress to the fish, who knows. Why not be a good aquarist and introduce some youngster to the hobby by donating your fish to them rather than make the fish suffer all it's life?... but make sure they read a good book about goldfish first.
Nothing was ever taken from one to the other. Dipping of fingers or hands from one tank to the other was an absolute sin, and never done. Hands were washed before working on the next tank, and any drips or condensation were wiped away in case it/they dropped from one tank to the next lower one. A single drop of water can transmit a disease from one tank to another so quickly you wouldn't believe.
Water changes:
Water changes, (in my case) were done on a visual basis. If the water has evaporated ?" from its original marked level I would do a 30% water change, never every few days, and never more than perhaps once a month, and always using my aged water in the outside tub/s. Invariably the tanks might have needed a clean up, so in this situation we would siphon the rubbish off the bottom and into a bucket. The water that we siphoned out was dumped and replaced by our aged water. This was then our "water change" and few troubles were encountered. A balanced tank will keep itself free from excess toxins, e.g., the right water conditions, substrate-plants-filtration-and fish, any of which can cause an unbalance.
Water:
Too hard, too soft, too alkaline, too acid - all can be balanced without chemicals.
Substrate/gravel:
Too fine, packs down tight, causing bad circulation, especially with u/g filters, whereas too large a gravel will allow food to reach inaccessible places with dire consequences - food remains uneaten and quickly fouls the tank. Remedy, go for what's right, not what looks pretty.
Slow deterioration of rocks and ornaments:
Badly selected rocks and substrates, (lime-based gravels, sandstones, corals, shells, ornaments), will all change your tank conditions as they slowly leach or dissolve over time. That ornament or substrate may look great, but is it killing your fish?
Hiding Places:
Many types of fish need places to hide, but many things other than plants are usually unsightly. The upturned flower pot of the terra-cotta type can soon become disguised by algae growth and such, but a simple idea for quick camouflage is to spread silicone glue on the item and roll it in some gravel. You can do this with all sorts of things including bits of pipe that might be homes for your nocturnal fish such as some catfish.
Plants:
Too few plants - no hiding places for fragile fish, causing fish to be bullied. Again, find out the likes and dislikes of your plants. For instance, most Crypts prefer dimly lit areas, etc. Shallow gravel will not produce good plants. Bank your gravel to the rear of the tank (at least 3") and plant accordingly, big deep rooted plants to the rear, small types to the front. As with your garden, they need feeding and something to get their roots into. The wastes from your fish may in most cases be enough food, but a good root structure and light are essentials for all plants. A 'Plantab' for aquarium plants slipped under the roots will assist flagging plants. Or try this:
Plant Fertiliser:
Putting fertiliser under plants is a good idea, but unless it is in a tablet form it can be really messy. Try this. Mix a small quantity of organic peat and potting mix (again organic) in a bowl with water until the peat/potting mix becomes fully saturated. Use an ice cube tray and fill with the mixture. Pop it in the freezer till solid. You now have cubes of fertiliser that you can pop under your plants without mess. The ice will melt quickly leaving a nice deposit of fertiliser in the right place.
Weighted Plants:
Instead of attaching lead weights to plants, use a rubber band and a pebble. Place the pebble at the base of the plant and wrap the rubber band around both the pebble and the plant stem. Once buried it will remain unseen, and you have no bits of lead in your tank if the plant breaks free.
Filtration:
NEVER turn your filter or air off for any length of time, especially an undergravel filter. The bacteria buildup will skyrocket causing major probs instantly. Always have some form of air supply running if your tank is in the least bit crowded. Contrary to belief, the bubbles from an airstone don't put oxygen in the water. What the bubbles do is break up and disperse the CO2 that can build up in a tank. Watch for fish lurking near the surface with open mouths, a sure sign of lack of oxygen in the water. Not the Gouramis, Bettas etc, which are surface breathers anyway. For these fish, ensure the surface is scum free by dragging a sheet of paper over the surface of the water occasionally. This will completely remove the thin film that sometimes forms on the surface of the water. Check each day.
Heat Distribution:
Fit your heater as low as possible in your tank and clear of the gravel, and if it is a separate unit from the thermostat place it at the opposite end of the tank. This will prevent cold spots in your tank and provide a constant temperature at all levels. (Heat rises, so if possible fix your heater in a horizontal rather than a vertical position for better heat distribution).
Twin Heaters:
Fitting two heaters in a tank seems a waste, but if you set one to only come on at say 72degF then in the event of a heater failure you won't lose all your fish, and you will always have a spare heater on hand.
Feeding:
Feed half as much as you think your fish need, and if its not consumed in less than five minutes, you are feeding too much. An established tank will sustain your fish for a week or more without food, so don't think you need to feed them every time you pass the tank. "Ooh look, they're all excited at seeing me, they must be hungry…" In goes another feed, the third today. How often have you done or said this?
When to feed:
Never feed at night then turn the lights off and leave the fish in darkness, a major problem. The corys and kuhlis won't mind, but your tank will suffer if the night dwellers don't eat all the remains of the food. Small fish have small mouths, so vary your food type to suit them all. Give them a live food treat now and again, brine shrimp, microworms, grindal worms, white worms, or even a chopped up earthworm if you have big fish. In time you will know their likes and dislikes.
Probs with algae:
Throw the scraper away an get a couple of small plecos. They're fun, hardy, and adore algae.
Impulse buying of fish:
Fine if you know the fish, and of course is great for the LFS (Local Fish Shop), but can cause many upsets and even tears if you don't read first, so take an hour or so and read all you can before you jump in the deep end.
Lastly:
Read, read, read - the three rules of keeping fish. Learn every possible thing you can about where your fish comes from, its water conditions, its temperature limitations, the food it eats, the species it can live with, its breeding habits, is it a loner or does it school with others, and in general, its likes and dislikes. piranhas and neons have an adipose fin and are distant relatives, but they definitely don't live together, so read and learn all you can BEFORE you add that particular fish to your collection. (No comments on the piranhas please)
It seems a lot to take in all at once, but all this info. is on this site and many others just waiting to be read if you care to read and study it. My philosophy is that "If anyone can teach me something I will listen, should it be a child, or a ninety year old." So I am learning each time I read an article about tropical fish.
We all lose fish at some time or other, and the reasons can be mystifying, but personally I feel that many of the losses are caused by either sheer neglect and not making oneself familiar with the fish BEFORE purchase, along with the possibility that many of the fish were actually poisoned due to the intake of chemicals, incorrect or too many water changes and such.
We can take a pill for a headache or an ailment, but if we take too many of them it will undoubtedly kill us. This will possibly cause a lot of backfire from the clued-up aquarists, but I still feel that if you read up on your fish, get to know its habits and living and water conditions and the neighbours it lives with, then you are well on the way to having a less stressful and very enjoyable hobby. Many newcomers try it once and leave quickly after their first failures. We don't want this to happen to you, so read everything you can about the hobby, consider your situation and your set-up, then, and only then, think (very carefully) about your next purchase.
...Just a note for people who keep goldfish in a heated aquarium:
All fish have the right to a decent life, even goldfish. I myself have culled thousands of fish in my time I suppose, but these were either runts or a defective strain that I would not allow to continue living and breeding for fear they would fill our tanks with some of the oddities I see today. Selective breed by all means, but don't allow your runts and defective breeds to enter the world of the aquarist. (Are there any 'true' strains still out there?). Goldfish are cold water fish, and keeping them at 70F+ degrees will shorten their life span by many years. We had goldfish that lived happily for ten years, outside in a pool that would freeze over in winter with over an inch of ice, but come spring they were always there. The heated tank may also cause undue stress to the fish, who knows. Why not be a good aquarist and introduce some youngster to the hobby by donating your fish to them rather than make the fish suffer all it's life?... but make sure they read a good book about goldfish first.