Post by MADMIKE on Sept 26, 2006 16:32:46 GMT -5
Afric Rope Fish
Tropical Africa
Sexual Differences
Immaterial. Not bred in captivity.
Temperature
75 to 80o best
Attitude
Jumps if left uncovered. More active at night.
Schedule
Nocturnal predator
Security
Really loves caves
Foods
Picky -- shrimps, worms, insects, fish
Water
Add salt
Origin. All ropefish come from Africa. None breed in captivity. As a result, their price never drops.
Appeal. Snake lovers can’t resist these guys. Ropefish look like a foot-long snake. Those two little extensions on their nose really add to their snake-like look. Snake haters can easily resist them. Ropefish look and move like underwater snakes. They are not. They are not eels either (which they also resemble). They are true fish. However, unlike regular fish, they breathe atmospheric air. They absorb their O2 via their intestines. Their surface breathing trait may contribute to their tendency to wander out of their tanks. They love to bail out and boogie at night.
Foods. Consider ropefish a picky eater. In our experience, these guys seem to prefer live worms – tubifex, earthworms <Live%20Food,%20Earthworms.htm>, blood worms <Live%20Food,%20Blood%20Worms.htm>, or glassworms. Ghost shrimps <Live%20Food,%20Ghost%20Shrimp.htm> also make tasty snacks. They also like the frozen versions. After thoroughly inspecting them, they eagerly eat smaller chunks of nightcrawlers. (Snip them with scissors.) They also eat frozen brine shrimp and any fish they can catch after you turn the lights off. They will eat frozen beef heart and other formula foods. They will not eat flake foods – regardless of brand. Most learn to eat sinking cichlid pellets. Last but not least, they also enjoy ghost shrimp <Live%20Food,%20Ghost%20Shrimp.htm>, rosy reds <Live%20Food,%20Fathead%20Minnows.htm>, and neon tetras. Large ropes will eat swordtails.
Poor Mixers. Faster fishes eat their lunch. Larger fishes intimidate them. Rougher fishes bully them unmercifully. Ropefish have absolutely no way to fight back other than running and hiding. Luckily they have those tough ganoid scales. And since they eat small fishes on the night shift, you need to mix these guys carefully. Gouramis make a good mixer. Swords and moons tend to disappear.
Caves: Provide your ropefish with a choice of caves. They like to curl up in their caves then come out and prowl for food starting somewhere around dusk. Several will bunch together in one cave.
Water. Because ropefish breathe atmospheric air and absorb it in their intestines, they can live in crummy water. We do not recommend keeping them in crummy water. Their gut respiration helps them adjust to shallow waters that warm up very fast in the hot sun. These guys do not like the sun or bright tank lights. Give them a hiding cave.
Jumpers: Like all long, snaky-looking fishes, ropefish will snake out of any uncovered tank at the earliest opportunity – especially if picked on by other fishes. Keep yours well covered or lower the water level (or both).
Tough Skin. Hard nacreous scales give ropefish a tough, protective skin. If you see one on the floor, re-catch him in a wet net or he will probably grow fungus all over his body. We cannot report much success at treating this ugly fungus.
Breeding. You will not breed your ropefish
The difference between male and females is easily told by the difference in numbers of their pectoral appendages. Males have 12-14 and females have 9-10. They can be kept alone or in groups. If kept alone they become territorial and the introduction of a new one will complicate things. They are also not picky eaters. They will eat most any live food. Dead, frozen or alive they aren't picky. The temperature range for these fishes is also 70-85 degrees. They thrive in 82-83 degree water. Ropefish are also able to augment their oxygen supply through the use of their swim bladder. It is used much like our lungs and this is how they can survive out of water.
Tropical Africa
Sexual Differences
Immaterial. Not bred in captivity.
Temperature
75 to 80o best
Attitude
Jumps if left uncovered. More active at night.
Schedule
Nocturnal predator
Security
Really loves caves
Foods
Picky -- shrimps, worms, insects, fish
Water
Add salt
Origin. All ropefish come from Africa. None breed in captivity. As a result, their price never drops.
Appeal. Snake lovers can’t resist these guys. Ropefish look like a foot-long snake. Those two little extensions on their nose really add to their snake-like look. Snake haters can easily resist them. Ropefish look and move like underwater snakes. They are not. They are not eels either (which they also resemble). They are true fish. However, unlike regular fish, they breathe atmospheric air. They absorb their O2 via their intestines. Their surface breathing trait may contribute to their tendency to wander out of their tanks. They love to bail out and boogie at night.
Foods. Consider ropefish a picky eater. In our experience, these guys seem to prefer live worms – tubifex, earthworms <Live%20Food,%20Earthworms.htm>, blood worms <Live%20Food,%20Blood%20Worms.htm>, or glassworms. Ghost shrimps <Live%20Food,%20Ghost%20Shrimp.htm> also make tasty snacks. They also like the frozen versions. After thoroughly inspecting them, they eagerly eat smaller chunks of nightcrawlers. (Snip them with scissors.) They also eat frozen brine shrimp and any fish they can catch after you turn the lights off. They will eat frozen beef heart and other formula foods. They will not eat flake foods – regardless of brand. Most learn to eat sinking cichlid pellets. Last but not least, they also enjoy ghost shrimp <Live%20Food,%20Ghost%20Shrimp.htm>, rosy reds <Live%20Food,%20Fathead%20Minnows.htm>, and neon tetras. Large ropes will eat swordtails.
Poor Mixers. Faster fishes eat their lunch. Larger fishes intimidate them. Rougher fishes bully them unmercifully. Ropefish have absolutely no way to fight back other than running and hiding. Luckily they have those tough ganoid scales. And since they eat small fishes on the night shift, you need to mix these guys carefully. Gouramis make a good mixer. Swords and moons tend to disappear.
Caves: Provide your ropefish with a choice of caves. They like to curl up in their caves then come out and prowl for food starting somewhere around dusk. Several will bunch together in one cave.
Water. Because ropefish breathe atmospheric air and absorb it in their intestines, they can live in crummy water. We do not recommend keeping them in crummy water. Their gut respiration helps them adjust to shallow waters that warm up very fast in the hot sun. These guys do not like the sun or bright tank lights. Give them a hiding cave.
Jumpers: Like all long, snaky-looking fishes, ropefish will snake out of any uncovered tank at the earliest opportunity – especially if picked on by other fishes. Keep yours well covered or lower the water level (or both).
Tough Skin. Hard nacreous scales give ropefish a tough, protective skin. If you see one on the floor, re-catch him in a wet net or he will probably grow fungus all over his body. We cannot report much success at treating this ugly fungus.
Breeding. You will not breed your ropefish
The difference between male and females is easily told by the difference in numbers of their pectoral appendages. Males have 12-14 and females have 9-10. They can be kept alone or in groups. If kept alone they become territorial and the introduction of a new one will complicate things. They are also not picky eaters. They will eat most any live food. Dead, frozen or alive they aren't picky. The temperature range for these fishes is also 70-85 degrees. They thrive in 82-83 degree water. Ropefish are also able to augment their oxygen supply through the use of their swim bladder. It is used much like our lungs and this is how they can survive out of water.